restaurant review - Crotasc

I posted this on eGullet back in March, but have just realized that it's difficult to find on that site now. So here it is again.

We've discovered a new treasure, Crotasc, a restaurant attached to the Mamete Prevostini winery in Mese, just outside Chiavenna. Their specialties are salumi and insaccati (dried meats) and wild game (including salumi made from wild game), and of course their own wines.

The house welcoming nibble consisted of thin slices of slinzega, a dried beef similar to the Chiavennasca specialty, violino di capra ("violin of goat' - salted preserved haunch of goat, traditionally carved by holding it under your chin and sawing towards you with a long knife), along with several kinds of excellent bread, ranging from pure white to the traditional pane di segale (rye) - I wish I could buy the bread the restaurants get!

My husband had the 30-euro wild game menu, which started with a small selection of wild game salumi, followed by ravioli with fagiano (guinea fowl). I had home-made papardelle (wide pasta ribbons) with duck breast. Both were wonderful.

Enrico's secondo was a medallion of venison with a sauce of Sfursat (the local "fortified" wine); I had a venison cutlet. Both were served with a dollop of polenta and a vegetable "foam." My cutlet was excellent, but Enrico's with the sauce was even better.

For dessert I had a chocolate pudding in vanilla sauce, Enrico had an orange semifreddo (semi-frozen), which again I liked better than my own - maybe I'm just envious.

We accompanied everything with a Grumello 2000 by Mamete Prevostini, also excellent. We could probably have bought some of their wine while we were there, but they were disappointingly out of the lovely white called Opera that we had tasted last summer at a Lanterna Verde - they're waiting for the new vintage to be ready. I guess we'll just have to go back for it.

The restaurant is divided into two rooms, one traditional with a huge fireplace, and big dark wooden ceiling beams. We ate in the non-smoking room, which looked as though it had been recently done or re-done, in light wood with lovely modern fountain chandeliers and stone paving. There is also lots of outside seating, so the place is probably even more delightful during daylight, in good weather.

I've put details and a map link for Crotasc on my site, http://www.straughan.com/italy/restaurants.htm
I warmly recommend this restaurant to anyone who's visiting Lake Como - it's well worth the trip.

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